Electric
Space Saver® Electric
Featuring a variety of models designed for installations in cottages, offices, mobile homes or other places where space is limited, the Space Saver® line of residential electric water heaters provides optimum reliability, performance and energy efficiency.
Standard Electric Water Heater
Standard electric water heaters are easy to install and can be located almost anywhere in your home. GSW offers a wide variety electric heaters based on gallon capacity, physical size, electrical configuration and water connection location.
Hybrid Electric Heat Pump Water Heater
The Hybrid Electric Heat Pump water heaters offer a cost effective, energy-efficient option for consumers who want to save money on their electric utility bills. These heaters absorb ambient heat from the surrounding air to the heat water using a compressor and environmentally-friendly R134a refrigerant.
FAQs
Electric water heaters
What type of element do I require for my electric water heater?
The element in your water heater could be one of four types: strap-on, plug-in, bolt-on (square flange) and screw-in. The water heater element should be visually inspected to ensure you are selecting the correct element.
What are the differences between electric elements?
The strap-on elements are heating bands that wrap around the water heater. These elements have been replaced by more efficient immersion type elements and have not been used in the manufacturing of residential water heaters since the 1970’s. As a result, the elements are no longer being produced.
The plug-in elements are immersion-type elements and have a round flange that is held in place by a steel plate that bolts on to the water heater. A small rubber gasket (usually orange in colour) is used to seal the connection between the element and tank opening. These elements have not been used in manufacturing of water heaters since the mid 1980’s; however, limited selections of plug-in elements are available for replacement parts.
The bolt-on (square flange) elements are immersion-type elements and have thick steel flange that bolts to the water heater. A thick black rubber gasket and a flat gasket are used to seal the connection between the element and the tank opening. The bolt-on elements are still used on some models of water heaters and are widely available.
The screw-in elements are immersion-type elements and have a hex head flange (1 1/2″). The element screws into the water heater and has a thin gasket that is used to seal the connection between the element and the tank opening. Plumber’s tape or pipe dope should be applied to the element threads.
What are the effects of scale or lime formation on electric elements?
All water supplies contain varying quantities of impurities, with calcium and limestone being the most prominent. When water is heated, these minerals “fall out” of the water and are deposited on the interior surfaces of the tank as scale. The formation of scale increases with the temperature of the stored water. Scale forms on all surfaces including the element itself. The scale builds up an insulating layer which impedes the efficient transfer of heat which may allow the element to glow red hot in specific localities along its surface.
When this occurs, the scale that has built up on the element surface will flake off. When water comes back in contact with the hot element surface, the water will flash into steam. This alternate heating and cooling of the element shortens its life span. This process also creates a layer of debris at the bottom of the tank which can build to considerable depths, even to the point where the lower element is covered, affecting the proper operation of the tank.
How do I install an element?
IMPORTANT:
To avoid risk of electric shock, make sure the power is turned off and remains off until all repairs have been completed.
WARNING:
A water heater is capable of producing hot water at a temperature sufficient enough to cause scalding injury. Take proper precautions when draining a water heater to prevent scalding injury.
Read all instructions carefully before repairing a water heater.
- Turn off water supply and power supply.
- Drain tank to a level below the element opening.
- Remove outer casing service door and fold back insulation.
- Disconnect wires from element and remove element bolts.
- Remove element and old gasket from the tank.
- Clean tank flange surfaces of any dirt or debris.
- Insert new gasket, element and thermostat bracket.
- For square flange (4-bolt) tighten element bolts diagonally a little at a time. Do not over-tighten or damage will occur.
- Insert thermostat behind the element bracket. Make sure thermostat is tight against tank. If necessary, bend the clips to provide more tension.
- Fill tank completely with water. Open a hot water faucet to let the accumulated air escape.
- Reconnect the wires to the element terminals. Consult the wiring diagram for proper connections.
- Check for leaks. Repair if necessary.
- Replace insulation over thermostat and element.
- Replace service door and turn on power supply.
What is the sequence of operation for a dual-element electric water heater?
When power is initially turned on to the unit, the upper element is energized and heats the water in the upper third of the tank.
When the upper third of the tank is heated to the upper thermostat, power is switched to the lower heating element. The lower element continues to heat until the water temperature in the lower portion of the tank is heated to the lower thermostat setting.
As hot water is drawn from the top of the tank the dip tube delivers cold water to the bottom of the tank.
Eventually the cold water mixes with the hot, lowering the temperature below the thermostat setting and the bottom element is energized. If enough water is drawn to cool the upper-third of the tank, the upper thermostat will send power to the upper element first. When the upper-third of the tank is heated, power will again be switched to the lower element. If the upper element burns out, the water heater will cease to function because the upper thermostat will never be satisfied and power will never be switched to the lower element. If water temperature in the tank reaches 180°F, the manual reset hi-limit switch will be tripped. This switch can be reset by firmly pushing the red button above the upper thermostat.
If enough water is drawn to cool the upper-third of the tank, the upper thermostat will send power to the upper element first. When the upper-third of the tank is heated, power will again be switched to the lower element. If the upper element burns out, the water heater will cease to function because the upper thermostat will never be satisfied and power will never be switched to the lower element. If water temperature in the tank reaches 180°F, the manual reset hi-limit switch will be tripped. This switch can be reset by firmly pushing the red button above the upper thermostat.
Single-element water heaters have one element mounted at the bottom of the tank controlled by a single thermostat and high limit switch.
How can I adjust the temperature on my electric water heater?
The water heater temperature is shipped with both thermostats factory preset at 140ºF, unless specified differently by federal or provincial regulations. The equipped adjustable thermostats on your water heater have a linear relationship between degrees of angular rotation and the corresponding change in temperature. Thus, rotating the temperature adjustment indicator 30 angular degrees will result in a 10ºF change in the water temperature.
Follow these steps when adjusting the temperature:
- TURN OFF THE ELECTRICAL SUPPLY. Do not attempt to adjust thermostat(s) with the power turned on.
- Remove the thermostat access panels and foam covers from the thermostats. Do not remove the plastic personal protectors covering the thermostats.
- Using a flat tip screwdriver, rotate the adjusting knob to the desired temperature setting.
- Replace the foam covers and access panels, and turn on the heater’s electrical supply
What are the steps to troubleshoot my electric water heater?
- Turn the power to the water heater off at the main electrical panel.
- Remove the two access panels from the front of the water heater.
- Turn the power to the water heater back on. CAUTION: You will be testing a live circuit.
- With a multimeter, turn the setting to AC voltage, 240v or higher.
- Test between #1 & #2 of the high limit, you should have a reading of 240v. If the reading is “0” there is a problem with the electrical panel, in which case call an electrician.
- Test between #3 & #4 of the high limit, you should have a reading of 240v, If the reading is “0” try pushing the red re-set button on the hi-limit you should now have 240v, if not then change thermostat/limit.
- If the upper portion of the water heater is cold, test if T&P valve is cold, you should have 240v between #7 of the upper thermostat and #4 of the hi-limit.
- Considering all tests between 5 & 6 are good, you should have 240v across the two screws “A” & “B” of the upper element when the tank is cold.
- If the tank is hot, test the power across #6 of the upper thermostat and #4 of the hi-limit you should have 240v. If not, change the thermostat. Upper portion of the heater should be hot. The lower portion of the tank is the part of the tank that gets the most work; this element will be the first element to come on when there is a demand for hot water.
You will always have 240v between #1 and #4 on the hi-limit. 240v between screws “A” and “B” on the upper element when the tank is COLD. 240v between screws “C” and “D” on the lower element when the upper portion of the tank is HOT. When the tank is SATISFIED you will have 240v between screw #6 of the upper thermostat and #4 of the hi-limit but not power across the elements. With a short draw of hot water the lower thermostat will close and send the power to the opposite side of the element to heat up. If all voltages test OK, turn off the power to the water heater at the main electrical panel, remove wire from one side of each element, set the multimeter to “Ohms” and test the ohms reading of the elements.
If the ohms reading is too low or too high, change the element.
1200w @ 120v = 12.0 ohms
1500w @ 120v = 9.6 ohms
1500w @ 240v = 38.4 ohms
3000w @ 240v = 19.2 ohms
3800w @ 240v = 15.2 ohms
4500w @ 240v = 12.8 ohms
5500w @ 240v = 10.5 ohms
GSW builds its water heaters to be safe, energy efficient and reliable.
Many components, like our exclusive Turbulator dip tube, are available on many models and can help maintain optimum efficiency and extend tank life by reducing sediment at the bottom of the tank.
